The quality of an olive oil depends on many factors: the cultivar (the type of olive), the pedoclimatic conditions, the condition of the olive tree and the fruit during harvest, the techniques used for cultivation, for the harvest, the extraction and the preservation conditions.
The olive harvest
It is the most delicate and conclusive phase in order to obtain a high quality oil. Usually the harvest commences when the skins turn a purplish or black colour, in the so-called darkening phase, before dark pigments also reach the pulp. With regards to the harvesting methods, the most ancient method, that is stripping the olives from the tree by hand is necessary in order to achieve an exceptionally high-standard product. Harvest of the fruits which have fallen to the ground is certainly not the most suitable method to achieve high quality because:
the drupe is already too mature
upon falling and breaking, the contact of the pulp with the ground and the relative damp, accelerates the decomposition process.
The Oil available on the market
The taste of the freshly squeezed oil, is definitely too intense and the bitter, spicy and fruity sensations are disproportionate, but after a few months (around 3), the oil starts to settle and to express its personality to the best: the perfumes and aromas reach a correct balance and the oil is ready to be tasted in all its glory. After this phase, which lasts around twelve months, the oil slowly begins its descending parable acquiring a slightly sweeter taste and this is the first sign of the oxidation process that will inevitably modify its structure within a few months, towards a more fruity perfume. After two years extra virgin olive oil continues to be edible, but it has now lost all its aroma and colour; from the third year onwards it is no longer recommended for consumption.
Purchase recommendations
A sublime quality and richly fragranced extravirgin olive oil cannot be cheap. Compared with a generic oil, it wins on a price/yield ratio: only a little is required for seasoning and cooking, but the food acquires more flavour and cooks better in quality oil; furthermore, the possibility to use less means that it is possible to avoid an intake of excess fat, which all goes to improving our health.
Olive oil has always been subject to fraud and sophistication due to the high processing costs compared to all the other oils. The most common fraud refers to:
Extravirgin oil that contains refined oils, whether from olives, seeds and palm oil;
Oil with analytical parameters which do not comply to EC standards;
Oils of various coloured seeds which can be passed of as olive oil.
Advice for correct use
As in the case of wine, every dish needs its own oil but, also in this case, there are no fixed and inflexible rules, as the only judge is the individual taste of the consumer. In any case, for mayonnaise, boiled fish and raw meat, a delicate and refined taste is definitely preferred. More full-bodied oils are ideal for legumes, seasoned toasted bread, grilled fish or meat and salads.
Some simple suggestions to also achieve maximum results when frying can be found below:
use virgin or extravirgin olive oil, as they are more heat-resistant;
add salt and spices to the foods after frying, and not during, as they accelerate the alteration of fat;
dry all foods to be fried carefully;
avoid temperatures over 180° C, using (if possible) electric fryers with a thermostat;
check the state of the oil during frying; alterations can be seen when it darkens, becomes stringy, when it foams excessively and creates smoke;
never add fresh oil to the frying oil.
Advice on correct preservation
To start with the oil must be protected from the light and heat and the bottle, once opened, must be kept tightly closed; three simple but essential rules to prolong the action of the antioxidant substances in the oil.
Once exposed to contact with the air, it should be consumed within a reasonably short time, always closing the container after use with the cork.
Contrarily to what may be believed, the cold causes less damage to the structure of the product and its preservability.